A West Hollywood star

Stella, West Hollywood

RESTAURANTS • First Word

The Skinny: A majestic, two-story Italian spot in the former Madeo space in West Hollywood, Stella is a winning new bet from Toronto import, chef Rob Gentile. 

The Vibe: Set inside a renowned mid-century modern building, the restaurant space was redone by designer Wendy Hayworth (Felix, Gracias Madre, The Jeremy Hotel) in a modern interpretation of a classic Italian kitchen. The upstairs level is light and airy, anchored by large sliding glass doors that lead to a big terrace. Downstairs, the subterranean warmth of an old world haunt, with dark, walnut-paneled walls brightened by terrazzo floors.  

The Drinks: A trio of Negronis and martinis top the cocktail list, including the Oilo d’Oliva, a martini with a choice of olive oil. There’s also a Toronto, a nod to Gentile’s former stomping grounds — that’s rye, Nocino, Fernet, and toasted pecan — and about 15 wines by the glass.

The Food: Daring highlights from the (sprawling) menu include a puntarelle salad with hen yolk and crispy smelts; octopus tortellini coins, served in fish brodo, sharp with a hint of spicy ‘ndjua; and Iberico pork pluma with porchetta spices — better than wagyu, softer than any steak could be. 

There are also classic pastas and pizzas — long ovals, served with scissors for personalized slicing, cooked in Madeo’s old pizza oven — as well as “Su Filindeu, the world’s rarest pasta,” cooked in bone broth and served with braised lamb neck. 

The Verdict: Flawlessly executed staples and inventive specialties in a fresh take on a great space. –Caitlin White

→ Stella (West Hollywood) • 8899 Beverly Blvd • Wed-Sun 5-10p • Reserve • Image: Jakob Layman.