RESTAURANTS • First Word
The Skinny: Lauded Downtown Thai takeaway Holy Basil now has a sister sit-down spot in Atwater Village. The new outpost is currently in soft-opening mode, with fluctuating hours for lunch and dinner. Coming soon are a weekend brunch service, a liquor license for natural wine and sake, and a market. (Later this year, the same team will debut a tasting menu concept in Melrose Hill.)
The Vibe: Tight quarters with an open kitchen, the space is bedecked in stainless steel and fruit-patterned, vinyl-topped tabletops. The restaurant is considerably sleeker than your typical Thai Town joint, but still evokes street-food dining (low-height seats, small footprint). Bar seats are the ideal vantage point for two-tops.
The Food: The kitchen sources ingredients from respected purveyors (listed at the top of the menu) for creative takes on Thai classics. Umami-laden snacks include crying tiger short ribs, fried sweet-and-sour chicken wings, and top-notch sai ua and Isaan sausage, while larger dishes are mostly curry, noodle, or rice-based. Two early favorites: “grandma’s” fish and rice (studded with crispy bits of barramundi), and a yellow curry with wild shrimp.
The Verdict: Please welcome the next gen of Thai eating. –Emily Wilson
→ Holy Basil (Atwater Village) • 3170 Glendale Blvd. • Days and times vary (check Instagram for current hours).