Coming up roses

Olive & Rose, Long Beach

RESTAURANTS • First Word

The Skinny: Opened last month, Olive & Rose at the newly revamped Century City Motel is the sophomore effort from the sister-and-brother team behind Long Beach’s acclaimed Heritage — and an impressive one at that. Here, they’ve eschewed tasting menus for more casual fare and a relaxed vibe. 

The Vibe: Serene and chic, but unbuttoned. The small dining room is framed by light wood and green accents, with curved chairs and understated, linear artwork throughout. Windows on both sides of the space look out onto the street and the motel’s expansive patio. For a more intimate experience, book the five-seat chef’s counter. Set in a separate room, it provides a good perch to watch the chefs work in a postage-stamp-sized kitchen. An outdoor patio is coming, but still in the works.

The Food: Upscale bagels by day (all the way up the scale to the caviar-topped $100 Bagel), and modern bistro fare by night. The dinner menu is simple but smart. Hope Ranch mussels are bathed in a dill-flecked dashi beurre blanc (add an order of bread to sop it up). Cucumber, grape, and creme fraiche “pearls” accompany an amberjack crudo, which makes the dish difficult to handle, but the cool, fresh flavors are spot-on. And slices of roasted pork shoulder are beautifully rosy, served atop a nutty romesco. The restaurant is still waiting for its liquor license, so the only drink options are sans booze, but the togarashi-spiked, zero-proof Radio Cosmos cocktail and a bright sparkling NA cuvée didn’t disappoint.

The Verdict: A charming little spot destined for more once the drinks and sunshine come through. –Karen Palmer

→ Olive & Rose (Long Beach) • 255 Atlantic Ave • Dinner: Tues-Sat 5p-9p • Reserve.