Mexican heat

MXO Steakhouse (West Hollywood)

RESTAURANTS • First Word

The Skinny: For the last decade, Wes Avila (Guerrilla Tacos, Angry Egret Dinette, Ka’Teen) has been synonymous with some of Los Angeles’s best Mexican cooking. With his new restaurant MXO Steakhouse, which opened at the end of August, he’s doing something he’s never done — fine dining in the heart of West Hollywood. 

The Vibe: Light wood, glass floors, and fire-as-decor telegraph the cavernous indoor/outdoor space as moody, masculine, and modern. Then again, it’s still Avila’s food — which has been heralded by everyone from James Beard to LA Taco — so it’s also bound to be a destination for solo dinners grabbing a drink and a snack at the bar, or couples out on a serious dinner date.

The Food: The foodways of Monterrey are a focus, and wood-fired meats are Avila’s medium. Start with the open-faced bone marrow torta topped with oaxaca cheese, and the grilled cabbage caesar salad, two inventive takes on standard steakhouse fare. 

A spectacular plate of Colorado beef ribs doused in an ancho chili sauce served with fresh red onions and tortillas has been on my mind since our table ordered the last one available that night. Those ribs, along with the gleaming, blackened pork al pastor — accompanied by half moons of grilled pineapple and fuschia-colored hibiscus pickled onions — are among the best dishes I’ve eaten all year.

The Verdict: MXO is a narrowing of Avila’s focus and a sharpening of his technique, in a space destined to be deservingly packed every weekend with well-dressed WeHo club crowds. Going full fine-dining may have unlocked a new mode for this storied chef. –Caitlin White

→ MXO Steakhouse (West Hollywood) • 826 N La Cienega Blvd • Tues-Thurs 530-10p, Fri-Sat 530-11p • Reserve.