New best friend

Companion, Venice

RESTAURANTS • First Word

The Skinny: The owners of Gnarwhal Coffee in Santa Monica have opened Companion, an unfussy all-day Cal-Italian restaurant on Venice’s bustling Lincoln Boulevard. It’s got all the elements of a neighborhood favorite: compact menu, breezy atmosphere, bumping sound system. 

The Vibe: Modern trattoria with a state-of-the-art stereo (playing everything from reggae to ’80s hits) to match. Sleek light wood shelves over pastel cabinets line one wall, housing wine and glassware. Marble tables and wooden chairs keep the lines clean and fresh, in allegiance to pointedly on-trend aesthetics.

The Food: There are pastries and sandwiches during the day, but come nighttime, chef Jack Goode — a Quarter Sheets alum — turns out the type of food one could eat multiple times a week: rigatoni bolognese, long beans dressed in a Caesar-style dressing, and panzanella with burrata (and the good melon straight from the Santa Monica Farmers Market). His thin, crisp-edged pizzas include one of few clam pies you’ll find in LA.

The Drinks: The coffee is, unsurprisingly, quite good. At dinner, wine gets the spotlight. Co-owner Nick Monica’s list includes easy-drinking Italian varietals like Montepulciano, and there’s a reserve list for those who want to dial it up. Larger groups in search of a really good time can opt for the cheeky Coors Banquet sidecar service (an ice-cold bucket of beers, served with chilled glasses).

The Verdict: Companion is poised to become an easy, smart answer for Italian food in Venice — it’s not reinventing the wheel, but maybe it’s just what you want on a Thursday night in the neighborhood. –Karen Palmer

→ Companion (Venice) • 1700 Lincoln Blvd • Coffee and pastries daily 7a-3p; dinner Wed-Sun 5-10p • Reserve.