Oyster, meet pearl
Rasarumah (Historic Filipinotown)
RESTAURANTS • First Word
The scent of satay skewers sizzling on the grill is just the beginning of a nighttime adventure at Rasarumah, the new Malaysian-inspired restaurant on Beverly Boulevard. The latest venture by Last Word Hospitality (Found Oyster, Queen St.), Rasarumah is a winning collaboration with chef Johnny Lee, celebrated for his Cantonese cult-favorite Pearl River Deli.
Drawing on his travels through the region and his expertise in the nuances of Chinese and Southeast Asian cooking, Lee presents dishes both comforting and unexpected. There’s rojak (a savory fruit salad), gado gado (little gems with peanut dressing), and Penang-style char kway teow (egg noodles with Chinese sausage and shrimp). The menu doesn’t shy away from indulgence, offering tender pork jowl satay with pineapple purée and large-format dishes like beef cheek rendang curry served with roti bread (order extra for good measure).
Housed in a former brassiere factory, the space blends industrial gravitas with the vibrant energy of Penang’s bustling cafés. It has a distinct 1970s feel: Checkerboard linoleum floors meet butter-yellow banquettes, antique brass sconces, and exposed brick walls. The semi-open kitchen, anchored by a stainless-steel bar, is framed by a colorful wall of sliding marquee letters — quintessentially LA. Lee’s personal touch extends to the décor, with framed photographs from his Malaysian travels and a smattering of eclectic details: cookbooks, recipe illustrations, sake bottles, even an oil painting of Owen Wilson.
The beverage program, overseen by Last Word’s wine director Evelyn Goreshnik, complements the menu’s flavors. Expect a curated wine list — Jura whites, Mosel Rieslings, and California reds — alongside sake, soju, craft beers, and a “phony negroni.”
Built for both discovery and nostalgia, Rasarumah is poised to become a neighborhood favorite for its celebration of Southeast Asian cuisine’s kaleidoscopic flavors. –Victoire Loup
→ Rasarumah (Historic Filipinotown) • 3107 Beverly Blvd • Thurs-Mon 5-10p • Reserve.