Persian voodoo

Voodoo Vin, Silver Lake

RESTAURANTS • FOUND Table

Beloved Virgil Village wine bar Voodoo Vin has undergone a culinary facelift. Once a French-leaning wine bar helmed by chef Travis Hayden, then a popular site for international chef residencies, it’s now home to a kitchen dishing homey Persian fare. 

In 2021, owners Natalie and Michael Hekmat modeled the space after traditional ‘caves à manger’ in Paris, London and Tokyo — serving wines by the glass alongside a selection of small plates. They installed wooden communal tables, white stools, a minuscule open kitchen, and a sidewalk patio. All this remains intact; the difference now is that the couple has decided to take control of the back-of-house in celebration of their roots.

A smoky eggplant-pomegranate dip comes dolloped on sangak bread (best enjoyed with a side of sheep’s milk feta), the mast-o musir (shallot yogurt dip) tastes like a Persian mother prepared it, and the dolmeh gojeh (soft rice-filled tomatoes) goes great with dolmeh felfel (a ground lamb-stuffed pepper).

Natural wine enthusiasts will find an extensive selection, including ten options by the glass. The Hekmans have amassed a sizable Old World collection throughout their travels abroad: 400 bottles of indie wines from France, Italy, Spain, Georgia, and beyond. A non-alcoholic sumac-and-chili spritz also pairs perfectly with Persian flavors. Three years in, Voodoo Vin has found its truest identity. –Victoire Loup

→ Voodoo Vin (Silver Lake) • 713 Virgil Ave • Tues-Sat 5-10p • Email info@voodoovin.com or call (323) 522-3220 for reservations • photo: Dylan + Jeni.