The way of water

Marea (Beverly Hills)

RESTAURANTS • First Person

Over the past few years, Beverly Hills has become ground zero for upscale Italian in Los Angeles (see Funke, Dante, the reimagined La Dolce Vita). The newest player on this scene, Marea, isn’t just another New York City import, but Central Park South’s seafood temple — open as of last month on a tony stretch of Camden Drive.

The restaurant’s low-ceiling, white-tableclothed dining room is styled in neutral tones, warmed by light casting a golden glow on the proceedings. It’s the kind of lighting that makes everyone look good and might be one of the reasons the older (but well-preserved) BH crowd is already flocking here.

The wine list is mostly Italian, and comes with a steep price tag. So do the cocktails, most of which hover around the $35 mark (the “mare-tini” made with uni and sea salt brine goes for $46 per). The Marea Martini is a great way to start, with its savory and pickle-y notes thanks to tomato acqua pazza, Castelvetrano olive brine, Calabrian chile, and olive and basil oils.

What makes dinner at Marea worth the trip (or expense), however, is executive chef PJ Calapa’s way with fish, as first evidenced by elegant crudi-like nuggets of Pacific langoustine served on paper-thin cucumber slices, doused in a surprisingly spicy hot sauce. Meaty sardine fillets are draped over a sweet-and-sour caponata slathered on pine nut toasts. Impossibly tender swordfish is cooked to a perfect medium-rare, served with clams and a chorizo vinaigrette.

An artichoke and hearts of palm salad, meanwhile, is a crunchy counterpoint for the richness to come with the house-made pastas, especially fusilli with bone marrow and octopus ragu (a classic from the NYC original that’s made its way to LA).

For dessert, the tiramisu is creamier than most, draped under a Magic Shell-like chocolate coating and served with mascarpone gelato. It’s one last bit of magic for a restaurant that has plenty up its sleeve. –Karen Palmer

→ Marea (Beverly Hills) • 430 N Camden Dr • Daily 12-230p, 5-11p • Reserve.